Today is September 11, although we never would have known had we not had CNN. Julia, our translator, told us that the Embassy is trying to play down the anniversary so as not to incite anything. Although people have welcomed us with open arms and although the years of Soviet occupation have had a secularizing effect, Bishkek is a major strategic point for American operations in Afghanistan, and I'm sure that people have mixed feelings about Americans, the American government, and the American GI's living here.
(Horseback riding by Lake Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan)
We had the morning free to ride horses! Central Asian horses and horsemen are famous for their skill. I, on the other hand, can barely ride a tricycle. The horses are small but beautiful. I had no trouble mounting mine, but no one told me how to turn or brake. My horse immediately started to wander off towards the lake. I didn't know what to do, so just turned to everyone and said, "Umm, bye, my horse is moving...are we all going this way? I guess I started already." Susie later told me it was really hilarious. The horse was going so slowly, and I was still totally helpless. The Kyrgyz horsemen decided that maybe I should not be alone on a horse, which was fine with me! Soon I was on my way with Ascat, who was perfectly comfortable riding with no saddle. Later he even got back on the horse while it was moving!
With the pathetic state of my Russian, conversation was limited. I said that we were American, that I played violin, and that I was 25, and he asked me whether I was married and when I would get married. I think these country people live and think a little differently than we do! Ascat showed us an orange berry which he said was very healthy. I ate a handful. They were tasty but very tart. We rode for a couple of hours, often close to the water. Another thing that I think demonstrates how much Kyrgyz people care about their animals is that the colts of two of the horses got to tag along with their mothers for the ride. One of them would suckle every time we stopped! Joe, who is allergic to all animals, was sneezing like mad by the end of the ride, and all of us were a little sore. I think we all agreed that in spite of everything it was well worth it.
On the way back to Bishkek we gave a quick little performance at the Balykchy Music School. As usual, the people were wonderful and all got our autographs.
A while later, our driver, Tolya, pulled over at a yurt and told us that this was a good place to try fermented mare's milk! I don't know how he knew to stop at this particular yurt, but here was our chance for one of our most-anticipated Central Asian experiences! A very nice Kyrgyz woman served us the mare's milk and let us take pictures of her baby. I was the only person who liked it. To me it tasted like some kind of slightly fermented buttermilk with Bacos.
The trip to Issyk-Kul was amazing and eventful, but the evening's return to the cozy Hyatt Bishkek was something of a relief. I have so much respect now for these people who live without the comforts we are used to. Earlier, at the yurt we had seen where they were washing their clothes in the river, not to mention the fact that yurts are only one room. I don't think I know anybody who could raise a baby in such conditions.
- Michelle
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